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Aug

25

Debt-to-Income Ratio –- It’s Just as Important as Your Credit Score When Buying a New Home

Posted By: Ramon Rivas on August 25, 2010 at 9:56 pm

Your debt-to-income ratio (DTI) is a simple way of calculating how much of your monthly income goes toward debt payments. Lenders use the DTI to determine how much money they can safely loan you toward a home purchase or mortgage refinancing. Everyone knows that their credit score is an important factor in qualifying for a loan. But in reality, the DTI is every bit as important as the credit score.

Lenders usually apply a standard called the “28/36 rule” to your debt-to-income ratio to determine whether you’re loan-worthy. The first number, 28, is the maximum percentage of your gross monthly income that the lender will allow for housing expenses. The total includes payments on the mortgage loan, mortgage insurance, fire insurance, property taxes, and homeowner’s association dues. This is usually called PITI, which stands for principal, interest, taxes, and insurance.

The second number, 36, refers to the maximum percentage of your gross monthly income the lender will allow for housing expenses PLUS recurring debt. When they calculate your recurring debt, they will include credit card payments, child support, car loans, and other obligations that are not short-term.

Let’s say your gross earnings are $4,000 per month. $4,000 times 28% equals $1,120. So that is the maximum PITI, or housing expense, that a typical lender will allow for a conventional mortgage loan. In other words, the 28 figure determines how much house you can afford.

Now, $4,000 times 36% is $1,440. This figure represents the TOTAL debt load that the lender will permit. $1,440 minus $1,120 is $320. So if your monthly obligations on recurring debt exceed $320, the size of the mortgage you’ll qualify for will decrease proportionally. If you are paying $600 per month on recurring debt, for example, instead of $320, your PITI must be reduced to $840 or less. That translates to a much smaller loan and a lot less house.

Bear in mind that your car payment has to come out of that difference between 28% and 36%, so in our example, the car payment must be included in the $320. It doesn’t take much these days to reach a $300/month car payment, even for a modest vehicle, so that doesn’t leave a whole lot of room for other types of debt.

The moral of the story here is that too much debt can ruin your chances of qualifying for a home mortgage. Remember, the debt-to-income ratio is something that lenders look at separately from your credit history. That’s because your credit score only reflects your payment history. It’s a measurement of how responsibly you’ve managed your use of credit. But your credit score does not take into account your level of income. That’s why the DTI is treated separately as a critical filter on loan applications. So even if you have a PERFECT payment history, but the mortgage you’ve applied for would cause you to exceed the 36% limit, you’ll still be turned down for the loan by reputable lenders.

The 28/36 rule for debt-to-income ratio is a benchmark that has worked well in the mortgage industry for years. Unfortunately, with the recent boom in real estate prices, lenders have been forced to get more “creative” in their lending practices. Whenever you hear the term “creative” in connection with loans or financing, just substitute “riskier” and you’ll have the true picture. Naturally, the extra risk is shifted to the consumer, not the lender.

Mortgages used to be pretty simple to understand: You paid a fixed rate of interest for 30 years, or maybe 15 years. Today, mortgages come in a variety of flavors, such as adjustable-rate, 40-year, interest-only, option-adjustable, or piggyback mortgages, each of which may be structured in a number of ways.

The whole idea behind all these newer types of mortgages is to shoehorn people into qualifying for loans based on their debt-to-income ratio. “It’s all about the payment,” seems to be the prevailing view in the mortgage industry. That’s fine if your payment is fixed for 30 years. But what happens to your adjustable rate mortgage if interest rates rise? Your monthly payment will go up, and you might quickly exceed the safety limit of the old 28/36 rule.

These newer mortgage products are fine as long as interest rates don’t climb too far or too fast, and also as long as real estate prices continue to appreciate at a healthy pace. But make sure you understand the worst-case scenario before taking on one of these complicated loans. The 28/36 rule for debt-to-income has been around so long simply because it works to keep people out of risky loans.

So make sure you understand exactly how far or how fast your loan payment can increase before accepting one of these newer types of mortgages. If your DTI disqualifies you for a conventional 30-year fixed rate mortgage, then you should think twice before squeezing yourself into an adjustable rate mortgage just to keep the payment manageable.

Instead, think in terms of increasing your initial down payment on the property in order to lower the amount you’ll need to finance. It may take you longer to get into your dream home by using this more conservative approach, but that’s certainly better than losing that dream home to foreclosure because increasing monthly payments have driven your debt-to-income ratio sky-high.

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Jul

07

Pre-Approval Letter – How To Use It To Get Your Dream Home

Posted By: Ramon Rivas on July 7, 2010 at 7:42 am

When house hunting, many buyers make the mistake of waiting to contact a lender until after they have located their dream home. As a buyer, you will be in a much stronger position with a seller if you are pre-approved.

Pre-Approval Letter

To effectively house hunt, you must know the amount you can borrow from a lender. There is nothing worse than find your dream home, but failing to qualify for the amount you need for a loan. Avoid this by asking your lender to pull your credit information and to let you know what needs to be done to get a pre-approval letter. If you are going to have problems with getting a loan, it is better to know about it as early as possible.

Sometimes buyers resist contacting lenders because it’s not the enjoyable part of home buying and they’re afraid an extra credit check will reduce their credit score. This resistance is penny wise and pound foolish. Buyers who get their loan arrangements lined up at the beginning of the house buying process are really doing themselves a favor.

Much of the country is experiencing a hot, sellers’ market. It is not unusual for a seller to get more than one offer on the same day. If that happens to you, your pre-approved status can give you an edge over the competition. In fact, it can make a seller choose you over another bidder.

Presenting Your Letter to a Seller

When you tell the seller you want to buy their property, give them a copy of your pre-approval letter. They will probably recognize the value of the letter, but don’t depend on this assumption. Make sure the seller realizes the loan is already approved.

As you give the seller the letter, explain to them that you are serious about making the transaction go smoothly and, for that reason, you have already been through most of the loan application process. Point out that the lender has pulled your credit info and you’ve provided copies of W-2s, pay stubs, and all the other things the lender needed to decide that you do qualify for a loan. Tell the seller that the only remaining thing to do is to give the lender a copy of the contract that you and the seller sign, and the property needs to appraise for an appropriate amount.

Taking this approach puts you in a very strong position. The seller knows you are not just wishing; you are capable of buying his property. One of a seller’s worst nightmares is signing a contract with someone, taking his property off the market, wasting time and then finding out that the would-be buyer cannot get a loan. On the other hand, you and your pre-approval letter are dreams come true.

Put on your shining armor and get pre-approved by a lender. Once you have the letter in hand, get out there and find your dream home.

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Jun

17

What Factors are Used to Calculate Credit Scores

Posted By: Ramon Rivas on June 17, 2010 at 6:35 pm

In the US, your credit rating is extremely important. Having a good score opens doors for you and an unsatisfactory score will slam them in your face. Your credit score actually represents the risk that the lender assumes in order to loan you money and determines how big your loan can be. So what are the factors that help calculate credit scores?

1. Payment history. The record of payments you have made to all of your creditors is the biggest factor (35% of your score) that’s taken into consideration when figuring out your credit rating. It doesn’t take much to lower your rating. Even late payments take their toll. Of course, missed payments and defaults on debts will make a bigger mark. Any bad marks on your credit report will stay there for seven years, with generally no exception. Even if you’ve paid off the debt, it will most likely not be erased from your report until the 7-year period is up.

2. credit card usage ratio. Your credit card usage ratio (30% of your score) compares the amount of credit you have available to you to the amount you are using. Your score is better (higher) if you are not using all of your credit. If you think that paying off an account and closing it is a good idea, think again. That could actually drop your score in this department. The best solution is to have several accounts open and not use all of them. This is viewed upon as an advantage by potential lenders.

3. credit history length. How long you have been using credit is another issue when it comes to how to calculate credit scores–it accounts for about 15% of the total. Again, if you remember that your credit score is what lenders are looking at to determine your loan eligibility, you can understand why this is important. They tend to view someone who has long credit history and a few marks against him/her as more favorable than someone with a short, perfect credit history. This is a good reason to have your kids start making credit history early (and in a responsible way with your guidance).

4. credit variety. This makes up about 10% of your score. Believe it or not, it helps your score if you have many types of debt (credit cards, mortgage, car loans, etc).

5. Your stability. This includes how long you’ve been at your job, how solid the job is and how long you’ve been living at your current address. If you’ve been at your address for less than three years, this is viewed as less than stable.

Now you know what factors are used to calculate credit scores. Understanding them is important because it allows you to take action on certain aspects that you have the power to change. Hopefully you can use these guidelines to establish good credit or bring your current credit score up a notch or two.

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Jun

14

Best Cash Back Credit Card Means Money In Your Pocket

Posted By: Ramon Rivas on June 14, 2010 at 10:02 am

Many people miss out on the opportunity of getting the best cash back credit card simply because they didn’t realize that getting that type of card was an option. In truth, these types of credit cards are fairly common, but they aren’t all the same. Each company will have it’s own specific benefits for their credit cards. To get the best deal for you and your situation, you will have to be willing to spend some time to find the best fit for you.

Here are a few things to keep in mind as you look for a card:

1. Find several banks that offer this type of credit card, most every bank will have some version so at this point just make note of the top 5 or 6 so it doesn’t get too overly complicated.

2. Next to each of the cards on your list make note of what the percentage of cash back you will receive as well as how many points need to be accumulated before you can get a cash back payment. Also make a note of any special restrictions each card has. Some cards will offer a higher reward for certain purchases. If this is the case consider how often you’re likely to make that particular type of purchase. If you only get a high percentage cash back on items you hardly ever buy, you might want to keep looking.

Also take into consideration whether or not there is an annual fee, what that fee is, and whether or not you feel comfortable paying a fee.

3. Once you’ve gotten a basic list than you can whittle it down by looking at which card pays the most cash back percentage and also has the least number of points required for a cash back payment.

4. What are the interest rates of all the cards on your list? If one or more of the cards are offering an introductory rate make sure you know when that rate will expire and what it will go up to at that point. If everything else is the same, it’s usually a good idea to go with the card that has the lowest interest rate.

5. Make sure you carefully read all the fine print with any card you are considering. It’s also important to note if the card has restrictions on what you can use your cash back for. If your purchases are limited to things that you don’t actually buy that often, it won’t do you much good.

When it comes to your finances there is no such thing as being too careful. You have a lot of choices when it comes to which type of credit card to get. Don’t rush this decision or sign up for whatever offer you happen to get in the mail. Instead take a little time and use the tips I’ve given you to find the absolute best cash back credit card for you, your goals, and your lifestyle. That way your credit card can be a helpful financial tool, not a heavy anchor.

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Jun

14

Introduction to Foreclosure Auctions

Posted By: Ramon Rivas on June 14, 2010 at 7:19 am

foreclosure auctions are a legal activity prevalent in American and European countries. These days a lot of real estate investors are showing interest in foreclosure auctions because of the increased number of properties up for auction. This will in turn result in buying properties at reasonable prices. Many people buy houses in foreclosure auctions for either self occupation or merely to make profit out of it.

The first stage of foreclosure is something like this. The owner of the mortgaged property begins to miss payments. He receives notifications from the lender regarding the missed payments. If the owner continues to default, the lender begins preparations for filing the foreclosure, during which the owner may try to sell the property. If for some reason the sale of the property fails, the pre-foreclosure or default phase terminates.

The foreclosure auction occurs after the default phase has ended. The lender decides to regain its losses by selling the property to the highest bidder in the auction. The amount received from the sale is received by the lender who initiated the auction in the first place. Any additional amount is spent on any other expenses or liens on the property. The rest of the amount after resolving all encumbrances against the property is given to the home owner. foreclosure is the best place to buy houses at great bargains.

foreclosures can be classified as judicial and Non-Judicial, the main difference being the time taken by the lender to foreclose the defaulted loan. Judicial foreclosure is longer than the Non-Judicial process. In a Judicial foreclosure, legal instruments called mortgages are issued and the whole process takes place through court. In the latter process, deeds of trust are issued, and the title remains with the lender as long as his payments have been settled. The lender also has the power of sale by which the trustee can sell the property quickly and thus recover the collateral of the lender in timely manner.

homes can be bought at the pre-foreclosure phase also and is something which happens quite so often. Once the foreclosure has been filed the property is in public records. Interested buyers can be a helping hand for the distressed home owners. In most cases, the owner is dealing with a negative event in his life that has caused him to fall behind in his mortgage payments. Adding foreclosure to the credit history of the home owner will make buying another home or establishing any sort of credit a tough task for a long period of time.

Buying directly from the owner for an amount higher than the mortgage balance will end up in the owner receiving more than that he would receive through an auction because of the fee and expenses involved in the process of reaching the stage of auction. If the amount received from the highest accepted bidder cannot pay off the lender, then the owner is liable for the deficiency which may result in garnished wages, seized assets and potentially even federal income taxes. Negotiation with the owner is a critical factor in the pre-foreclosure phase. Even though it might not be an attractive deal for the buyer, the relationship he builds up with the owner may result in many other investment opportunities. A proper analysis of the property is also required before making a pre-foreclosure deal. The amount you agree upon must benefit you as well as the owner in the best possible manner. Before closing the deal the title must be thoroughly verified for clarity and only then the money should be released. Agreements wi ll be signed and you will end up having the satisfaction that you made a deal below the market rate and the owner will have a relief of paying off the mortgage.

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